Mark My Words

When it comes to Badger State tourist attractions, you’d be hard pressed to find anything weirder than The House on the Rock.

I mean that as a compliment.

Opened in 1960, the Spring Green attraction is like nothing I’ve ever experienced before. I don’t even know what to call The House on the Rock: it’s technically a museum-slash-architectural-complex, but that doesn’t do it justice. “Unhinged funhouse” is more accurate. Roadside America, no stranger to odd places—that’s kinda their bread and butter—call it “the Seventh Wonder of Roadside America.” I can’t quibble with that either. Oh, and to really confuse you, there’s a separate golf resort, too.

The House on the Rock (THotR going forward) was the brainchild of Alex Jordan Jr., whose family hailed from Madison, Wisconsin. While picnicking in Iowa County near Spring Green in the 1940s, young Alex became fascinated with Deer Shelter Rock, a 450’ stone outcropping towering over the fertile Wyoming Valley landscape. He imagined building a house atop the promontory—not just any old structure, but a “Japanese House” inspired by architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s “fusion with nature” style that would take full advantage of the sweeping views. In 1953, Alex secured a lease on the land from a local farmer and built a small studio on the rock, a place where he could retreat from the hustle and bustle of Madison. Eventually, with help from his parents, he purchased the entire 240-acre property and, despite no formal architectural training, began work on his increasingly elaborate (and kooky) dream.  

Curious locals, wondering what the heck was going on up there, trekked to Deer Shelter Rock to take a look. Tired of shooing them away and realizing he could help fund his project by providing tours and charging visitors an admission fee, Alex erected a sign advertising “The House on the Rock” in 1960 and collected 50 cents per person. This marked the humble beginning of what is today one of Wisconsin’s most popular, unique, and unabashedly weird tourist attractions.

I don’t know that we can call Alex Jordan a visionary, unless his vision was to throw everything at the wall and see what sticks. He was certainly mysterious and eccentric, like a Midwest version of Howard Hughes, minus the endless wealth.  

Forever a work in progress, Alex continued to add onto THotR until his death in 1989, at the age of 75. The result is a hodgepodge of eclectic structures full of random oddities, from the Original House and Asian/Japanese Gardens to a series of disparate loosely themed collections in rooms so cavernous they resemble airplane hangars. The whole complex, divided into three sections, spans nearly three square miles, so wear comfortable shoes!

There is little rhyme or reason to the exhibits; you’ll find everything from creepy dolls, wooden ships, covered wagons, circus figurines, and coin-operated mechanical music machines fed by tokens you buy onsite to King Arthur-era knights on horseback, one of the world’s largest collections of miniature dollhouses, and the coup de grace, a 200′ long sea monster battling a kraken suspended from the ceiling while an animated octopus plays The Beatles’ “Octopus’s Garden” (naturally) down below. It’s kitschy, corny, and cool, all rolled into one.

Choosing a THotR highlight is impossible, but two exhibits stand out. The Infinity Room is a 218-foot-long narrow glass-walled room that stretches over the forested valley below, seemingly defying gravity. It’s counter-balanced by 105 yards of concrete, allowing the last 140 feet to extend unsupported, giving it the illusion of floating in space. With 3,264 windows, you have panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Take a deep breath if you’re afraid of heights!

Another standout is the world’s largest indoor carousel, featuring 269 carved wooden creatures, 20,000 lights, and 182 chandeliers. There isn’t a single horse to be found, but there are some interesting animal-human hybrids, a choir of angels, and more than a few topless mannequins.

Tara and I spent over three hours wandering around the complex one rainy April morning/afternoon, and I lost track of how often I asked her, “What are we even looking at here?!” Truly, there is no satisfying way to describe the place. It’s like Disneyland for adults, but even that is selling the experience short. The whole place is bizarre, outlandish, and over-the-top…yet endlessly fascinating.

It’s also showing its age. Buckets are often set out to collect rainwater, some of the artifacts are falling into disrepair, carpets are stained, glass is broken, and the exhibits could use a good dusting (and better lighting). It smells musty. Sadly, the whole place feels a bit dingy and neglected. But in a weird way, that adds to the charm. THotR is humbly Midwestern through and through, and a great way to kill a few hours. Ideally, allow yourself a half-day to fully explore every nook and cranny.

Three tours are available: The Original House Tour (section 1), The Highlight Experience (sections 1 & 2), and The Ultimate Experience (all 3 sections).

In October, a Halloween-themed Dark Side Experience is available. And in November and December, there’s a Christmas Experience, featuring an extensive collection of Santas and holiday décor.

Fun Facts

• Most of the artifacts are replicas rather than antiques (though there are a few exceptions). The website makes this clear.
• Two music videos were filmed at THOTR: 10,000 Maniacs’ “More Than This” and The Raconteurs’ “Somedays (I Don’t Feel Like Trying)“.
• Author Neil Gaiman featured THOTR in his 2001 novel, American Gods.

The Rating

You’ll either love it or hate it, depending on your appetite for camp. It’s definitely cheesy, which is appropriate for my new rating system. I give THotR 4/5 curds.

If You Go

The House on the Rock
5754 State Road 23
Spring Green, WI 53588
https://www.thehouseontherock.com/

Check the website for hours and seasonal dates.