Mark My Words

Quick, what’s the first thing that pops into your head when you think of Wisconsin? Chances are, you immediately thought of cheese. Understandable, this being “America’s Dairyland” and all. And while dairy definitely dominates, Sconnies embrace a bevy of culinary traditions, from brats and Kringle to Friday fish fries.

Most beloved of all, however, is the supper club.

No Booze? No Problem.

While these dining establishments aren’t unique to Wisconsin — they exist in pockets across the U.S. — the majority are concentrated in the Upper Midwest, and with over 250 operating within its mitten-shaped borders, Wisconsin is the undeniable epicenter of supper club culture. Why is this the case? We can thank good ol’ Prohibition.

When the 18th Amendment to the Constitution established Prohibition, banning the manufacture, sale, and transportation of alcoholic beverages, Wisconsin was well-positioned for booze-loving scofflaws. Literally: alcohol flowed freely, if illegally, into the state courtesy of Chicago bootleggers to the south and Canadian exporters up north.

Supper clubs got their start during this period as roadhouse taverns outside city limits. Following the 21st Amendment, which repealed Prohibition, they evolved into fine-dining restaurants offering alcohol, food, and entertainment such as dancing and live music in the 1930s and 1940s. Gradually, the emphasis shifted away from entertainment and focused instead on food and drinks — staples of the modern-day supper club.

The Supper Club Vibe

But what, exactly, is a supper club? I get that question a lot. They’re tricky to define, because each one is unique, but they all share a similar vibe: they’re independently (often family) owned, usually located in a rural setting well off the beaten path, the ambience is dark and cozy, and the vintage décor screams kitschy nostalgia. Walking through the door of a supper club is like stepping back in time; you’re likely to find dim lighting, plush velvet booths, wood paneling, and linen tablecloths. Frank Sinatra or Ella Fitzgerald are probably crooning at you through the speakers. Don Draper would feel perfectly at home inside a supper club (though he’d be asked to check his cigarettes at the door).

More than just restaurants, supper clubs are a full-fledged dining experience steeped in tradition, where the pace is slow and the meal is relaxed. You don’t just “pop into” a supper club; you can expect to spend hours there, starting with cocktails at the bar (typically a brandy Old Fashioned, of course), and progressing through multiple courses (relish tray, breadbasket, appetizer, soup/salad, main course, dessert). There is no way you will ever leave a supper club hungry, regardless of your appetite.

Another common theme among supper clubs: a limited menu that leans heavily on traditional surf-and-turn favorites. Steak, shrimp cocktail, French onion soup, wedge salads, and broasted chicken are staples. There’s always a Friday fish fry featuring some combination of cod, perch, walleye, and bluegill, and prime rib on Saturday. The finishing touch, if you’re able to loosen your belt a notch or two, is a classic ice cream drink like a Grasshopper or Brandy Alexander.

About That Relish Tray…

Yeah, the relish tray.

It seems to be falling out of favor. We went to four different supper clubs before finding a place that still served one. Salads (and occasionally, salad bars) are a more popular option nowadays. But when we finally tried one, boy oh boy, was it good.

For those places that do offer relish trays, each one is unique – but like supper clubs themselves, there are some common denominators. You can expect an assortment of pickled and raw vegetables, such as carrots, cauliflower, olives, celery sticks, and mushrooms. Dips and dressings (this is Wisconsin, so that’ll probably be Ranch dressing and a cheese spread). And crackers or crispy bread sticks to round out the tray.

Is the relish tray necessary? Nope…but what’s another 100 calories or so? You’re already splurging.

Three Classic Favorites

Tara and I have been to a bunch of supper clubs since moving here in 2022. Our first experience was Ishnala Supper Club in Mirror Lake State Park. Opened in 1953 and nestled amongst Norway pines on the shore of Mirror Lake, the setting is gorgeous, and the food was spectacular. Ishnala is consistently voted the Best Supper Club in Wisconsin, and it’s easy to see why. Everything about our visit was exceptional, from the lush views to the amazing oven roasted duck with sage dressing, orange cognac sauce, and brandy cherry sauce (me) and filet & jumbo fried shrimp (Tara). Ishnala doesn’t take reservations, so you can expect to wait at least an hour (and often longer) for a table. But the property boasts several bars, live music on the beach, and hiking trails around the lake, so there’s plenty to keep you occupied (and you can burn off some calories to make room for what will be an amazing meal). It’s well worth the wait.

Another favorite is the HOBNOB Supper Club in Racine. Open since 1954, the HOBNOB is situated on a bluff overlooking Lake Michigan. The views are spectacular, and after dark, the retro neon sign serves as a beacon to the Rat Pack era. We’ve been there twice, and both agree that the French onion soup is the best we’ve ever had anywhere. They also have a delicious calamari appetizer, lightly crisped and tasty. Tara is especially fond of the crab cakes with remoulade sauce; I’ve had the Steak au Poivre and duckling with sage dressing and orange sauce. Every bite of everything has been fantastic.

Pro tip: arrive early and grab a drink. This is something you should do at every supper club anyway, but especially the HOBNOB. If the weather’s warm, sip it on the patio and enjoy views of the lake; if not, sip it at the bar in front of the giant window and enjoy views of the lake. It’s a win/win either way.

Closer to home, the Duck Inn, located next to a cornfield in rural Richmond Township, is another favorite. This place has been around since the ’20s…the 1920s, that is. Unlike the other two supper clubs, there isn’t much of an outside view, but the interior is another story, complete with classic wood paneling and kitsch (yes, there are mounted ducks on the walls). The ambience here is really cool — especially the bar, which features a built-in aquarium. It’s got your classic wood paneling, Tara ordered beef burgundy tips over pasta, and I had a roasted duck sampler with four different sauces (a l’orange, mushroom, cherry jubilee, and apple brandy). If you haven’t guessed by now, I really like duck!

These three represent only a fraction of the state’s supper clubs but are a good representation of what to expect at any of them. We’ve tried a couple of others that were equally good, but that leaves us with 245 more to go. Too bad supper clubbing isn’t a paid occupation ’cause that’s a job I would love.

How to Supper Club Like a Pro

Remember, a supper club is more than a meal: it’s an experience. Here are five essential tips to ensure you get the most out of your night out:

1. Don’t be in a rush. The key to enjoying your supper club experience is patience. Remember, it’s more than a meal — it’s a ritual. Carve out several hours and savor every course.
2. Come hungry. Eat a light breakfast and skip lunch. Otherwise, you’ll fill up before your main course even reaches the table! This has happened to us more than once. Thank god for to-go boxes.
3. Bring a pair of reading glasses. I love the cozy ambience, but reading a menu by candlelight is tough, unless you have 20/20 vision. Sadly, I do not.
4. Don’t stress over the dress code. This is Wisconsin: there isn’t one. Some people like to put on their Sunday best to groove with the retro vibe, and that’s perfectly fine – but so are jeans and t-shirts.
5. Repeat after me: calories don’t count. Paying attention to your daily caloric intake is all well and good, but not when you’re going to a supper club. You’ll easily double that number, so for your own sanity, just call it a cheat day. And then order that Pink Squirrel.

Here’s a complete list of Wisconsin supper clubs, broken down by region. I’d say we have a lot of exploring to do!